... means: blew up "koppakking" ... as it seems to me.
How does the oil in your carter looks like now ? Bit of "mayonnaise" ?

I agree with Otje: blown headgasket.
In my opinion the gasket has blown because the liners/sleeves are seated flush with the block as you described. The top of the liners are supposed to stand some distance (0,05-0.1 mm) above the surface to ensure a good seal with the gasket. This distance can be achieved by choosing seals of different thickness at the bottom of the liners. If the liners are too high you risk malformation of the liners.

hoi otje en janW!

koppakking is new ,will that make it stronger? i will drain the oil as soon as i go back to work on it and look for "mayonaisse" (i wish i had frites!). i think it also might be a problem with the iron casting(very thin walls rusting away) of the cilinderkop hebben "poreusheid' or inlaatspruitstuk pakking putting coolant into the liners, they make a product that you can add to your coolant to seal small holes inside the engine block,if this clears up the leak ,then it is not the koppakking . if it continues, then the cilinderkop gets removed and the koppakking gets inspected?

This is what I tried to explain (Images by Ben Kulsdom who has a very useful site for DIY people http://www.kulsdom.be/)

The height of the liners above the has to be 0.05 - 010 mm, achieved by seals of different thickness at the bottom of the liners.
If the liners are flush with the top of the block you will likely encounter leakeage

JanW bedankt voor de tekeningen! that is very helpful. I went back and looked at the pictures I took rebuilding and the clearances of the sleeves actually may have been proper,but i am taking the cilinderkop off so i will re-check. i guess i should be careful to not lift out the sleeves when i take out off the cilinderkop?! i ordered a niew cilinderkop and niew koppakking, i will try again.

The clearances are important but it is also very important that the clearances of the sleeves are all the same.
During removing the head you have to take care NOT to move the sleeves, not even a little bit because you break the seals at the bottom and introduce a leak. A method to avoid this, is loosening the headbolts but keep 1 in place, light thightened by hand, and then slide or twist the head to one side. Never lift a head vertically because you will loosen the sleeves as they stick to the gasket and the head. Some types of headgaskets have a layer of sticky material that will "glue" during use for a good seal.
Now its a good time to measure the clearances of the sleeves again.(0.05-0.1 mm)

Fallen asleep?

hoi!

"mayonnaise" everywhere. drained the fluids. het verwijderen van de cilinderkop. i will put up pictures of the result.

Curious whats wrong inside

i have many pictures to upload. cilinderkop is off. otje was right, koppakking it was niew!
i checked the clearances for the height of the cilinder they were at .005!

the red in the cilinder is oil i poured in.



.05 clearance on all four cilinders!



could this be the problem?

or this?




now i wait for new parts

the head gasket was only five months old. when i removed the head bolts all the bolts on the exhaust side were very loose i had JUST tightened them to the right tightness setting after 500 km. and reset the valves too. why were they loose? from the heat? the head gasket had a small hole you can see above. but how could this happen so soon? i am waiting for a new cilinder head and gasket kit......

Why a new head? Is the old new head damaged/warped?

Loose bolts? I can think of 2 reasons.
wrong torque settings/ procedure or headgasketquality.
Diid you clean the boltholes to ensure that you did not torque the water or oil inside the holes?
Some remakes of gaskets are known to give these problems because the thickness and/or the "softness" of the rings that seals the sleeves is not good enough to ensure a good seal after warming up the engine a few times. Then the gasket does not set properly and you may encounter a leak even before 500 km . Therefore some people advise, before the first run, to run the engine a moment WITHOUT coolant to give the headgasket the opportunity to be seated. Then retightening the bolts. Sometimes they notice that sone bolts are not tight enough. After retightening fill with coolant for the first test and enjoy. Keep rev limited untill the 500 km service. Make sure you have a good quality of gaskets.

hoi

the "new" old head is not warped, but i am afraid the leak could also be from the passageways inside. also the waterpomp had a couple bolts that werent seated quite right and i am afraid that it wont survive. this way i can have a spare head on the shelf for my two other hy's ! how will i know a good koppakking? i bought a new koppakking from Geert. is there a special one i should look for? also im sure i torqued the cilinderkop to the right settings ,but you are right i dont think i fully removed all the oil and water from the bolt holes! i will make a special hose to attach to a vacuum to clean them out this time,bedankt JanW!