advice: please keep all (!) parts sorted very exactly in the way you took them out of the cylinder block ! (photo 2) You 'll have to replace them in exact the same way as they came out ! In this matter also great attention for the bearings of the big ends ! Check if these bearings still are in good shape.
The cylinders (sleeves ?) itselves can be removed by little wobbling of the upper side of these tubes (rubber hammer ?). Before replacing them you'll need new (paper) foot gaskets (and a little grease to stick them on their places) and fully (!) cleaning of all surfaces where they touch down in the cylinder block. (photo 1)
And, as your photo' s show, there is still cooling liquid within your block. You better let if off completely before continuing ... to provide a mess ...
so i have rebuilt the motor and it runs very well! i have a new problem though, the oil light flashes only at idle. i have used 20W50 and have the proper amount of oil. cilinderkop is niew. what could this be from? the oil pump looked fine when i was working on the motor and did not show any signs of wear. any ideas why?
thank you!
'79 HY78, 80 HY 78,'74 HY 72,'88 rhd 2cv,'75 2cv truckette,'69 volkswagen ,2001 Volvo XC,2008 Land Rover
2019 Royal Enfield '81 Moto Guzzi, '67 BSA, '78 Honda 350, '79 Batavus Regency, '81 Benelli Mini Enduro, '80 Garelli
-lelijke Amerikaan
A flickering oil pressure light at idle indicates low oil pressure, of course. If it goes out by the lightest touch of the throttle it means the pressure is sufficient. Thus happens in a lot of vintage cars when they are warmed up and does not always mean trouble. But it is a good idea to check the oilpressure because a faulty switch can give these readings,even when the pressure is fully normal.
Another option is to trial fit a new switch or one from another car.
A really low pressure can be caused by a worn pump, faulty overflowspring or worn bearings.
How dis you check the oil pump?
een Frans "projectje" blijkt een HY Betaillère te zijn, en is eindelijk klaar! en terug naar haar geboortedorp in de Dordogne.
Traction 11 BN 1953
DS 21 IE hydraulique
DS Break ambulance verkocht
XM V6
Fiat Topolino 1938
JanW schreef:A flickering oil pressure light at idle indicates low oil pressure, of course. If it goes out by the lightest touch of the throttle it means the pressure is sufficient. Thus happens in a lot of vintage cars when they are warmed up and does not always mean trouble. But it is a good idea to check the oilpressure because a faulty switch can give these readings,even when the pressure is fully normal.
Another option is to trial fit a new switch or one from another car.
A really low pressure can be caused by a worn pump, faulty overflowspring or worn bearings.
How dis you check the oil pump?
hoi janW!
bedankt voor de reply! the light does go out at the slightest touch of the throttle. i am just worried like a new parent about the baby! i looked over the oil pump but did not remove it or get inside it, so i can not say with certainty that it is functioning 100%. the oil is definitely moving through the motor.i used a laser thermometer to measure the temperature of the cilinderkop and it read about 57º how would i check the oil pump ? I will try to test the oil pressure switch, it worked fine before i rebuilt the motor. thanks!
'79 HY78, 80 HY 78,'74 HY 72,'88 rhd 2cv,'75 2cv truckette,'69 volkswagen ,2001 Volvo XC,2008 Land Rover
2019 Royal Enfield '81 Moto Guzzi, '67 BSA, '78 Honda 350, '79 Batavus Regency, '81 Benelli Mini Enduro, '80 Garelli
-lelijke Amerikaan
A realy short test: take the electrical wire from the sensor.
If the blinker still flashing at the dash then you have got electrical problem in the dashboard.
I'f you put the same wire to the - / massa off your hy the light goes flashing again. I'f not search the electrical problem in the dashboard.
Wire off flashas stops and wire on the -/massa flashas again then the electrical system are okee. Then you can find out or sensor Works well or Did you have a pressure problem in the engine.
Good luck
@Ugly
So the light goes out I would change the switch temporarily to be sure it switches at the right pressures.
If the flashing still exists, this means low pressure at idle and sufficient at higher revs. But is it low, low normal or normal? Measuring the pressure gives the answer.
Checking the oilpump involves removing the lid, inspecting the gears and measuring the play between gears and lid. Also the length of the spring. For measurements see thee manual.
But in most cases this flickering means the bearings are a bit worn. Did you inspect them?
een Frans "projectje" blijkt een HY Betaillère te zijn, en is eindelijk klaar! en terug naar haar geboortedorp in de Dordogne.
Traction 11 BN 1953
DS 21 IE hydraulique
DS Break ambulance verkocht
XM V6
Fiat Topolino 1938
the bus is working well! the problem it would seem was that the 'bobine' was loose, and this was causing the engine to run at a lower idle. the oil pump/sensor is in good shape! now my question is how shoudl i break in this new engine? i know i am not supposed to take long drives for a while any advice on a break in? re tightening heads? valves? thank you!
'79 HY78, 80 HY 78,'74 HY 72,'88 rhd 2cv,'75 2cv truckette,'69 volkswagen ,2001 Volvo XC,2008 Land Rover
2019 Royal Enfield '81 Moto Guzzi, '67 BSA, '78 Honda 350, '79 Batavus Regency, '81 Benelli Mini Enduro, '80 Garelli
-lelijke Amerikaan
After about 500-1000KM you will need to retighten the bolts. You can do this by loosening them for about a quarter or a half turn and then in one go tighten them to 6mkg / ~60Nm (some tighten them up to 70Nm).
You know about the specific order in which they need to be tightend? (which is in general to start in the middle and then work your way to the outsides in a spiral fashion).
And of course you readjust the valves after retightening the headbolts
een Frans "projectje" blijkt een HY Betaillère te zijn, en is eindelijk klaar! en terug naar haar geboortedorp in de Dordogne.
Traction 11 BN 1953
DS 21 IE hydraulique
DS Break ambulance verkocht
XM V6
Fiat Topolino 1938
so the bus was running very well, but yesterday while i was driving the bus began to loose power and then it overheated. there was some white smoke from the cilinderkop. i stopped the engine and let it cool down and checked my radiator coolant level and there was hardly any fluid. i had just recently flushed the radiator and re-filled the fluid, i think that the problem was the thermostat. i will report back the result of the thermostat test, i will see if it opens up in hot water then i will know. if it is not the thermostat,what else could cause the engine to overheat? the motor turns over ,so that is good, and of course i will have to reset the valves, and re tighten the cilinderkop , what else should i look for? thank you!
-gregor
'79 HY78, 80 HY 78,'74 HY 72,'88 rhd 2cv,'75 2cv truckette,'69 volkswagen ,2001 Volvo XC,2008 Land Rover
2019 Royal Enfield '81 Moto Guzzi, '67 BSA, '78 Honda 350, '79 Batavus Regency, '81 Benelli Mini Enduro, '80 Garelli
-lelijke Amerikaan
thats a pity to hear.
After how many km's did the overheating start? Did you try the car again after refilling the system?
A sticking thermostat can cause overheating; but most frequently the engine stays too cool when the thermostat fails.
Taking out the thermostat and driving the car can give some idea whats going on. If it stays cool its a sticking thermostat; if there is overpressure in the cooling system there is a leaking headgasket; if it overheats, the waterpump is suspect. Dio you see the water moving under the filling cap?
I will try to mention a few other causes that may be play a role in this failure if its not the thermostat or pump:
- Most likely its a blown gasket, due to different causes.
- How many km's did you drive after the rebuild? Retightening the head in time is important.
- You used a reconditioned head so its likely that the head surface is not warped? Or a used not controlled head?
- Did you grind the base of the new liners into the block?
- Did you control and correct the protrusion of the new liners above the block before mounting the head? If not, the head will not be seated properly to the block and the gasket.
perhaps I forgot a few causes but
Laatst gewijzigd door JanW op di feb 10, 2015 2:09 am, 2 keer totaal gewijzigd.
een Frans "projectje" blijkt een HY Betaillère te zijn, en is eindelijk klaar! en terug naar haar geboortedorp in de Dordogne.
Traction 11 BN 1953
DS 21 IE hydraulique
DS Break ambulance verkocht
XM V6
Fiat Topolino 1938
so i returned to the bus and tested the thermostaat. it is working fine. there was hardly any koeling/fluid in the bus. i filled it with fluid and there where no leaks, at first. then, i heard water and looked at the intake manifold and saw koeling fluid spilling out of my carburetor! and so it leaks from the part where the intake manifold meets the cilinderkop. it spills down the side of the engine block anytime i fill the fluid all the way up to the top of the radiator. what can cause this? also:
- Most likely its a blown gasket, due to different causes.
- How many km's did you drive after the rebuild? Retightening the head in time is important.
i drove about four or five hundred km and then tightened the head bolts in a spiral pattern and reset the valves/kleppen.
- You used a reconditioned head so its likely that the head surface is not warped? Or a used not controlled head?
i used a reconditioned head from hy team!
- Did you grind the base of the new liners into the block?
i made sure they where seated fully down into the block with the paper gaskets that have a flat edge on the one side.
- Did you control and correct the protrusion of the new liners above the block before mounting the head? If not, the head will not be seated properly to the block and the gasket.
i made sure the cilinders/sleeves were at the exact same height as the engine block( i used a flat piece of wood to check the heights before i placed the cilinderkop) , they fit well after i took a rubber mallet to them with a small wood board in between. this allowed them to fully seat into the block ,no water leaked from the surface where the cilinderkop/head meets the engine block, just from the intake manifold.
the bus wont run, it just turns over and over. there is coolant leaking from the bottom of the intake manifold. i noticed when it had overheated that there was coolant boiling out from the bottom of the intake manifold but i just figured that was from the overheating,i wonder what it is from?.
'79 HY78, 80 HY 78,'74 HY 72,'88 rhd 2cv,'75 2cv truckette,'69 volkswagen ,2001 Volvo XC,2008 Land Rover
2019 Royal Enfield '81 Moto Guzzi, '67 BSA, '78 Honda 350, '79 Batavus Regency, '81 Benelli Mini Enduro, '80 Garelli
-lelijke Amerikaan
