kan iemand helpen bij een nieuwe gebruiker van de Amerikaans

[ugly american]

im sorry mijn Nederlands is niet erg goed! gelieve te verbinden mij om de draden die de beste foto's van een koppeling worden vervangen op een benzine-HY van / hy72 Heel veel dank bij voorbaat! Ook leuk om u te ontmoeten! Thanks-greg

[ghys]

Hello Greg. First welcome here.

Maybe it's better to do you're question in English here and put some pictures about the problem(s).

Do you mean the cables off your spark plugs or something else?

[Harold Les Coiffeurs]

Ik denk dat draden "een linkje" is.
En dat hij een linkje wil naar wat foto's over hoe je een koppeling vervangt.

Een begin, maar weinig specifiek


http://www.flyinghy.nl/images/Exploded% ... No_651.pdf

[Otje]

Ik denk dat draden "een linkje" is. En dat hij een linkje wil naar wat foto's over hoe je een koppeling vervangt.

Harold: tevens mijn idee over deze zaak !

Greg: try this site: http://www.hyspares.com/
Jeff Winterman is english from origin and earns his living with repairing and restoring Citroen HY. All kind of technical conversation and discussion will be much easier (in english !) and he can help you with any problem on this subject.
Wish you lots of succes !
Gert

[ugly american]

ah yes i know jeff winterman! i was asking if any of you could point me to discussions here(i call them threads ) that are about replacing the clutch, ones that have photographs are the best ,im sorry my dutch isnt very good at all,thanks!-greg

[ugly american]

thank you harold those links are very helpful!

[ugly american]

ok here is my question:


is there anything i should know before i replace the thrust bearing inside the transmission? i have the motor out,and the parts are on the way from citroworld.

[Thomas]

Hey Greg,

Do you actually mean the thrust bearing inside the trans-case? or do you mean the small spigot bearing in in rear of the cranskshaft in which the nose of the inputshaft of the transmission sits?

Not sure on what task you have at hand righ now: clutch replacement or g-box rebuild.

Whatever you do, replace the aformentioned spigot bearing together with the clutch. and while your at it replace the primairy oil seal in the transmission inputshaft aswell.

Grtz Thomas

[ugly american]

thomas,
i meant the thrust bearing in the front of the transmission case. i will also replace the main seal for the gearbox and the rear spigot bearing too now thanks for the tip! i am replacing the clutch and just pulled the motor yesterday,when i pulled the motor out i noticed the drive shaft from the transmission came out with the motor as well,is this normal? thanks thomas!-greg

[Thomas]

Hi Greg,

The input shaft of the trans is indeed a seperate piece that can be taken out of the transmission if the engine is out. It was a pretty smart thing to do of citroen because this make one able to very easily replace input shafts should the nose become worn by means of a faulty spigot bearing, we had this a few months back. The front end of the shaft resides inside the splined section of the primary shaft that in turn is supported by 2 conical bearing in the front end of the trans, and ofcourse in the spigot bearing at the flywheel end.

Since the sideways play at the flywheel end of the input shaft in this configuiration is quite a bit higher than that of "single piece primairy shafts" you can see that the spigot bearing has a lot more force to deal with, and thus it's condition is very important. It is however said that permanent failure of the spigot bearing will more likely result in a broken input shaft and oil seal, than permanent damage to the actual primairy transmission shaft. which is a good thing.

Anyway, If the box shifts ok (remember ok = +/-1960's standards) and it doesn't leak oil. There's no need to replace the bearing of the input shaft, let alone the thrustbearings because there aren't any, remember that the axial play of the shafts is controlled by adding shims inside the rear transcasing, and not with dedicated thrust washers. As you can see there's no role for them to play because of the input shaft rotating inside 2 conical bearings, that dictate the final axial positioning of the piece.

grtz Thomas

[ugly american]

wow, super helpful post thomas! thank you! i am waiting for the parts now.on another topic, do you have any feelings about what type (if any) sealant should be used on the gaskets for the water pump,at the top and the bottom, it appears that two different types of gasket material were used. the one on the top looks like it was just paper, which i never use sealant on, the other looks like a red gasket type,the faces of the head are a little pitted from corrosion so i am worried....what do you think? thanks!-greg

[Thomas]

hey Greg,

I mostly use Hylomar Blue, but that is because it the only one that withstands petrol-fuel, and most cas I work on are race or competition cars that frequently need engine service and thus fuel is involved.

on the HY you can use more or less any type of liquid gasket, the better types are Loctite blue, and hylomar blue.
Anyway, whatever the car parts dealer has on the shelf will be fine for you waterpump.

I had to fix a waterpump on a ford powerd sylva striker kitcar once a few years back and because nothing else then bathroom silicone sealant was at hand we used that, i believe it's still in there. heck, the 24h of lemans was once won by a car that had it's fueltank leak shut with a chewwed up piece of "Stimerol gum".

btw I'm not a proffesional, it's all hobby.

Grtz Thomas

[ugly american]

can someone please tell me what this says? i am having vreemde koplamp. thanks!-greg

"Normaal gaan er 5 draden naar de schakelaar
Draad Ve 6 is groen en gaat naar het dimlicht van de rechter en linker koplamp.
Draad J5 is geel en gaat naar het grootlicht van de rechter en linker grootlicht (deze krijgt waarschijnlijk een vreemde spanning)
Draad Bc 9 is wit en gaat naar de claxon
Draad N1 is zwart en is de voeding, deze komt van de zekering nr 1 af .
Draad Mv 7 is paars en komt van zekering 2 af.
Als je het schema niet hebt kan ik het je wel mailen.

Groeten Willem"

[ugly american]

the clutch works very well,thank you for the help. now the engine idles very well but it sputters when the throttle is pushed down ,it seems like a clogged fuel filter ,but i have changed the filter and it still does the same thing. i also thoroughly cleaned the carburetor and checked for air leaks,everything seems ok. my question is this, would i be better off with a solex and how hard are they to find for the h van? does anyone have any idea about what this could be from?thanks for your help!
-gregory

[ugly american]

oh sorry forgot to include that this is a zenith carburetor !